Called Autozone and they insist they could not have made a mistake on the reading, since they did it twice.

 

Is it possible that when the transmission shop replaced the tranz that something happened to have this happen?

 

For a 2013 with 150,000 miles and still on original battery, I think the battery is the culpret. Did they load test the battery? Take it somewhere else and have it checked along with alternator. Read all the posts on batteries on this page and if you decide to replace MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A BMS RESET. If you do not know what that term means, read the battery posts here.

 

This is the original battery,

OMG, no wonder your having issues

 

I would check the battery connections have been tightened correctly, as they would have completely removed the battery to change the transmission.

 

I realize the battery is original and old. That may very well be the issue. Read a little about the BMS reset. Could the transmission shop have screwed something up with disconnecting and re-connecting the battery to affect the BMS and cause these issues?

I went to a different autozone after my last post - this was after the car did not start after the hatch and doors were open 1- 1 1/2 hours and driving it over to autozone right after jump starting, and they said the battery was charged 100%, but the battery was bad. The guy was new and couldn't figure out how to get more info from the gadget about what the problem was.

I will also go back today or tomorrow to another place to have them load check the battery and check alternator. I was told if it was the alternator, there will be issues when driving, which I don't have.

Can I trust any auto place that replaces batteries to be able to reset BMS, or if I don't want to do it myself, the dealer is the only option?

 

I realize the battery is original and old. That may very well be the issue. Read a little about the BMS reset. Could the transmission shop have screwed something up with disconnecting and re-connecting the battery to affect the BMS and cause these issues?

I went to a different autozone after my last post, and they said the battery was charged 100%, but the battery was bad. The guy was new and couldn't figure out how to get more info from the gadget about what the problem was.

I will also go back today or tomorrow to another place to have them load check the battery and check alternator. I was told if it was the alternator, there will be issues when driving, which I don't have.

Can I trust any auto place that replaces batteries to be able to reset BMS, or if I don't want to do it myself, the dealer is the only option?

You have two options on the BMS reset (this has already been posted numerous times, please read other postings), go to dealer, get FORSCAN and an OBDII reader that is compatible and do it yourself. If you decide on the latter, read the postings on that as well.

 

Exactly the same thing happened to me a few days before you posted this. Old battery, plain and simple. I got the whole, key not found, thing. Everything you said you had. New battery, no problems. Mine was the original battery also. Build date is Sept., 2013 for my MY 2014. So that was 6 years on the original battery.

 

Before I got rid of the 2013 I had replaced the battery twice. Mine was always parked outside and the Midwestern winters would just crush the tiny OEM battery.

The first time I used an OEM battery, it lasted through one winter OK but the second winter (which was brutal) showed it's weakness. The second time I fit a full size battery - never again would I have used the undersized OEM battery after being stranded the second time.

 

Wish I knew a full size would have fit. Just had mine change with an OEM. I guess this is one time OEM isn't better for compatibility.

 

If this was your first battery change, then you got 6 years on it. That is pretty good for a battery, so I would not second guess the matter. Big thing is to make sure you got the BMS reset.

 

Yeah, it's the first battery change, and I think I would have considered it abused. I've only had it in use one winter and my sister never drove it in the winter, so it likely had been jumped and charged a lot.

 

So much for Autozone’s battery test.
Really no need to trst on a 6 year old, 150k mile battery. Time to go anyway before you’re stranded in a parking lot by heat or cold. Not sure why people have complaints on a battery that lasts that long.

Thenew Motorcraft battery is guaranteed too btw. Likely it’s the last battery you’ll need unless you keep your car beyond another 5 years.

Other shops can do a Battery Management System, BMS, reset.
Here’s an example with a Snap On diagnostic unit.

 

So much for Autozone’s battery test.
Really no need to trst on a 6 year old, 150k mile battery. Time to go anyway before you’re stranded in a parking lot by heat or cold. Not sure why people have complaints on a battery that lasts that long.

Thenew Motorcraft battery is guaranteed too btw. Likely it’s the last battery you’ll need unless you keep your car beyond another 5 years.

Other shops can do a Battery Management System, BMS, reset.
Here’s an example with a Snap On diagnostic unit.

Interesting video. Only issue/question that I have is that the Ford WSM says that the reset MUST be done on battery change. Sitting 8 hours allows the computer to adjust to a charge and perhaps other items "if the vehicle draw is below 300 ma" but on battery change the WSM states if the BMS is not reset "it holds old battery parameters and time in service counter in memory"....and "tells the system the battery is in an aged state and may limit Electrical Management System functions."

I am glad that other places can do this as competetion is always good but sure wish the informaiton was more accurate.

 

I have a 2017 ford escape titanium that I bought new in September 2016 and in December 2016 one morning when I want to leave there was nothing dead completely not even able to unlock the doors. I took the key out of my fob to unlock the door no light nothing dead completely. I took my booster pack and I started the engine everything is back to normal except no radio. I went to the dealership, they reset the radio and they say my battery is ok. I still have the same original battery since that time and never had any other problem, however the last day that I took the vehicle before having this trouble I noticed that the snow was melting in the windshield at the level where the camera is placed for no reason. I wonder if it has not fallen to sleep like yours so as not to drain the battery. This maybe a protection. I live in an area where it is very cold in winter and as I still have the original battery I believe that the battery was not completely discharged when I had this problem because I should surely have changed the battery since that time

 

Have a 2013 Titanium, 150k miles.

Had a transmission replaced last week. Since then, one day I left my dashcam plugged into the cigarette lighter for a day, and the car didn't start. Had done that (leaving dashcam on) before without an issue.
Jumped the car and no further issues. A few days later, picking up something and I left the flashers on and the back hatch open, along with a door for maybe 20 minutes or so. Car wouldn't start and had to jump. This is the original battery, so I brought the car to Autozone to test the battery, and they said it was fine and at 100% charge. Right after that, I went home and washed the inside of the car, leaving the doors open and the back hatch open for an hour, hour and a half, and now it won't start again, and it says: "Ford Keyfree. No Key detected" Thought it might be a battery issue with the fob, and changed that, still not detected. Not sure if not being detected is because the car battery might be dead.

Any thoughts on why the battery tests ok but leaving the doors and hatch open a little while causes it not to start?

Dealing with this now after having latest recall done except it dies just by opening the door and dome lights coming on. Shutting the door right away didn't stop the battery from draining. Was wiping down the dash so I didn't need to start it. Jumped it and it was fine but happened again next day. Hear clicking sounds

 

Also note the battery is 3 years old. Never any issues until they did the recall 2 week ago. They ran diagnostic test for issue with rear differential so unsure if something got messed up during